Algae are a persistent problem in swimming pools. Pool algae can be introduced by wind, rain, or even tainted bathing suits. Algae can be killed when it comes into contact with water by adding chlorine or bromine. However, algae can become a problem if the pool is unused for too long or the winterization process is sloppy. The water in the pool will turn a murky shade of black or green if this occurs, making it impossible to see the bottom. In order to bring back the pool’s original shine and cleanliness, an acid wash will most certainly be required. If the bottom of a pool is still visible, it may typically be restored by adding chemicals, vacuuming, and filtering. Chemicals and electricity for filtering will considerably outweigh the expense of an acid wash if the floor is not visible. It will take a long time for the algae to be killed and removed using filtration and chemicals, so an acid wash is more cost- and time-efficient. Change the water and acid wash the plaster surface of your pool if algae seem to sprout overnight despite regular chemical maintenance, and you’ll have an algae-free summer.
An acid wash can remove a thin layer of plaster from the pool and reveal the newer, cleaner application beneath. It shouldn’t be done yearly because it will wear away the application and force you to repaint your pool. Because white coat or marcite application is typically used in thicknesses greater than half an inch, the occasional acid wash poses no threat to the pool’s structural integrity. Your pool’s surface can be brightened and cleaned with acid, even if algae aren’t a problem. Acid washing a pool always makes it look better and cleaner.
Muriatic acid is the acid of choice for acid washing. Hydrochloric acid, or muriatic acid, has the chemical symbol HCl. The risks of this substance, which can be purchased in highly concentrated concentrations at most swimming pool stores, cannot be overstated. Acid is a highly harmful chemical. When acid washing a pool, it’s essential to take safety measures to prevent injury and exposure to the acid. Put on safety gear, including a respirator rated for use with acid vapors, and stay safe. Put on rubber gloves and boots instead of regular ones, and don a pair of safety goggles. The staff at pool companies receives extensive training in acid use and handling.
The first step in performing an acid wash is to empty the pool. Remove algae and leaves from the collection by washing and scrubbing them as usual while the water drains. The acid wash can begin once the pool is drained and dry. Please remember to put on any necessary safety gear.
Mix one gallon of acid with one gallon of water in a large floral watering can (always add acid to water; never the other way around; doing so increases the chance of an explosion) to get the desired 50/50 acid combination. You can dampen the pool’s walls by running a garden hose without a nozzle. When cleaning the pool, keep the hose on full blast. The acid should be poured down the pool’s sides in 10-foot increments, working from the deep end to the shallow end. Keep the acid off the plaster for at least 30 seconds to prevent harm. Scrub the pool’s surfaces with an acid brush to distribute the acid. After scrubbing, rapidly and thoroughly rinse the area. Be cautious while you clean the acid from the walls of the pool. Any residual acid will permanently etch the plaster. If the 50/50 acid combination is ineffective, you can raise the concentration, leave the acid on the walls for longer, or scrub harder.
All the acid used for the acid wash will settle into the pool’s bottom. A neutralizer must be added to the collection of foaming acid before it can be pumped away. Two pounds of soda ash should be added for every gallon of acid to neutralize it. Pool supply shops typically stock soda ash. Use a pool brush on a pole to swirl the soda ash into the water as you spread it throughout the puddle. You can use pool testing strips to determine if the acid is neutral after it has been neutralized. A chemical testing kit should not be used since the acid could dissolve the plastic used for the test. pH 7 is the neutral point on the scale. The pH scale still includes everything below 7. Once the acid is neutralized, it can be pumped out of the pool using a submersible pump. If the neutralized acid is pumped somewhere where plants or aquatic life could be harmed or killed, precautions must be taken. Once the acid has been drained from the pool, a new round of rinsing is in order.
Don’t put off doing the acid work. Take your time and avoid any accidents. Acid vapors can be highly potent and lethal. Your respirator must be able to keep out 100% of the acid vapors. Examine the level of protection afforded by the safety glasses. Put on some old jeans, a long-sleeved shirt, some gloves, and some boots made of rubber. When leaving the pool, spray yourself down with water. When acid washing the pool, you should always have a second person present to assist with any unforeseen circumstances, such as phoning 911. The hose should flush any acid from the mouth, eyes, ears, or exposed skin for 15 minutes.
Avoid using acid if the pool’s lining is made of vinyl. Instead, it would be best to scrub the algae off the walls with detergent and hard work. It’s best not to empty the liner pool, as the liner can be tricky to reinstall after removal. The pool walls could collapse, albeit this is a remote probability.
If you want the acid wash done right, a professional should do it for you. The acid wash will make the pool seem as good as new. The collection should have no additional significant algae problems, provided the chemicals are adequately maintained from now on.
